This scale RC Toyota 4Runner rocks!

I used to own a real one of these (1986 Toyota 4Runner). However, it did not perform or look as tough as this one...

Suzuki Sierra or submarine?

Why shock absorber shields for 80 + 100 series Toyota Landcruiser?

If you own an 80, 100 or 105 series Landcruiser and you like your off-road touring, it pays to consider the fitment of your rear shock absorbers.

Both shocks sit forward of the rear axle, and it seems that everything that the front tyres travel over lands on them.

Regardless of the qualiy of the shocks, or whether they are double or tripple-tube, if you flick up a rock the size and shape of an axe-head: That's the end of the shock absorber!

So if you travel gravel, shield your rear shocks from stone-spray and rocks (wasn't mean't to rhyme)

Don't use rubber or similar tp cover the shock body, as it will trap heat and may also cause the shock to fail.

How do I work out the best length shocks for my 4WD?

Daily, we get calls and emails from people that go like this:

"I've got a (-insert your vehicle here-) with a 3" lift kit, and I'm chasing shocks that extend out 3 inches more than original, but compress down to the same amount as the factory shocks..."

It's not an unreasonable question. I can see the logic here. Unfortunately (in practise) it's wrong.

Firstly, lets assume that a vehicle fitted with a 3" suspension lift kit, will benefit from 3" longer shocks (more about this in a minute).

You can't have a shock that is 3 inches greater in extended length, yet compresses to the same body length of the original unit. This is because the shock body (which is your compressed length) must be greater in order to allow for the increase in rod length (extended length).

Memorise this.

- The body length of the shock must be greater in order to provide the increase in rod length (extended length).

- The body length of the shock must be greater in order to provide the increase in rod length (extended length).

- The body length of the shock must be greater in order to provide the increase in rod length (extended length).

The extended length of a shock, is determined by the length of the chromed piston rod, combined with the length of the shock body itself. On full compression, the chromed piston rod is contained within the shock body.

If we made say, just the chrome piston rod longer, and left the shock body length the same, on full compression of the suspension, the shock's chrome rod would simply smash through the base of the shock body.

Game over.

Back to the bit about needing shocks 3 inches longer, for a vehicle with a 3" suspension lift....

Perhaps your 4WD does need such an application. However, often this is not the case.

On the lifted vehicle, the extra movement or travel between the shock mounting points may be minimal. This can be due to the way that the suspension is configured relative to the positioning and angle of the shocks to the axle and the wheel.

It may be that the sway-bar mechanics on the vehicle are holding the travel of the suspension back (rather than the shocks).

It could be (in the case of heavy-duty springs) that the extra spring rate creates less flexibility in the suspension, negating the benefit of fitting a longer shock.

If we go ahead and fit the 3" longer shock (in the case of a coil-sprung vehicle), the coils may not remain captive on extended travel (the coil falls out).

That's a big deal.

On compression travel (because the shock body is longer) you might crunch (destroy) the shocks, as the vehicle's suspension pushes down past what the shock body length specification will allow.

Ouch!

If the longer shocks do allow for more suspension travel than original, your brake lines may be too short (stretch and tear).

You might put extra load or tension on your sway-bar. In some cases, your drive-shaft or tail-shaft may pull apart.

I'm not a drama queen (really), so this is how it works...

On most popular Australian-sold vehicles with a suspension lift of up to 50mm, the shock absorber length supplied (in almost any brand in the marketplace) is about the same as the original unit.

This is because in most cases there is sufficient travel in the shocks stroke to allow for this type of lift. Particularly as the amount of stretch between the shock mounting points is usually less than the amount of suspension lift height.

I'm not saying you can't get extra travel by fitting a longer shock, but the modifications and checklist involved are usually more than what the average family-orientated 4wd owner wants to be involved with.

"But I want maximum travel!"

OK. I hear you.

If your vehicle can benefit from fitting longer shocks, and you are happy to do what you have to do to make it work - here are some guidelines to start with.

First, determine the suspension travel your vehicle is capable of with no shocks fitted (none). You usually need to drive your vehicle up onto a dedicated travel ramp. If you don't have access to a travel ramp, you can achieve the same thing by jacking up each corner of the car with a forklift (one corner at a time), or finding some off-road terrain (or adapting some) that allows you to fully work the suspension.

Do this with great care. Regardless of the method that you use, you don't want the vehicle to roll over and crush you. In the case of a coil-sprung vehicle (as the shocks are removed) you don't want the coils to drop out.

Record the distance between the shock mounts at full suspension travel, for each direction of movement.

Also for reference, measure the distance between the shock mounting points while the vehicle is parked on flat ground. This measurement is called the 'static' or 'rest-height' position.

Then work with your supplier of shocks for the closest match in an appropriately valved product to both the open and closed measurements. The closed (upward travel) is just as important as the extended (downward travel). This is because in the case of a solid-axle suspension system, one side of the vehicle must be leveraged up in order for the opposite side to be pushed down.

Traditionally, a technically perfect application sees a shock absorber opened to the half-way position while the vehicle is parked on flat ground. So, if a shock has 10 inches of travel, the shock (at normal ride) would have the ability to extend out 5 inches before coming to the end of its travel, as well as compress 5 inches from the normal ride height position before crunching the shock.

A technically perfect application is not always possible, due to shock length availability, or the travel characteristics of the vehicle (may have more travel in one direction than the other). Essentially, as long as you have optimum travel in both directions, according to what your vehicle is capable of - you have a good long-travel shock application.

I mentioned earlier about modifications required to fit genuine long-travel shocks.

In most cases, extending the axle bump-stops is required. This is to protect the shock from 'crunching' and becoming damaged on full compression of the suspension as ...the body length of the shock must be greater in order to provide the increase in rod length (extended length).

Extending the axle bump-stops means you are reducing the bump-stop gap, so the rubber bump-stop makes contact with the metal striker plate before the shock crunches into itself. Extending the axle bump-stops (reducing the bump-stop gap) sounds counter-productive to the intention of maximising wheel travel.

The benefit of doing so (together with the longer shocks) still outweighs the performance of a vehicle fitted with a suspension kit and factory-length shocks - particularly in the case of bigger lifts.

A way of eliminating the need of extending the axle bump-stops can be to relocate the 4WD's shock mounting points, so that they are spread further apart. Weld-on shock hoops are one example of how to do this. It means that you can fit a shock with a massive amount of travel (more travel than what the vehicle is capable of in any direction).

So here, no need for extended bump-stops or inefficiencies in travel. No need to worry about crunching the shock on full compression of the suspension.

Next, check your brake lines. Purchasing extended-length ones is often required, because the suspension may now articulate further than factory design.

Check (in the case of a coil-sprung vehicle), that the coils remain captive (can't fall out) under the full travel of the suspension.

Check the stress on the other related components on the vehicle such as sway- bar and link pins. If you fit longer link pins or extend the original ones, this might alleviate some problems - It might also create new problems too!

The extra suspension travel available may also mean that parts of the suspension or axle may make contact with other parts and accessories on the vehicle.

You will need to counteract and compensate for this. Lots of extra travel can even allow your CV's, drive-shaft and tail-shaft to be damaged, slip out, or fall apart.

Again, you need to compensate for this.

All the things you need to do and check for are beyond the scope of this post.

Also, (and this is where I have to do the legal talk) you need to make sure that any modification you make to your suspension will not affect the safe and reliable operation of the vehicle, or contravene any applicable regulations, rules, laws or insurance requirements.

This is your responsibility. Don't shoot the mail-man!

An alternative we could look at to eliminate a lot of hassles associated with long-travel shocks, is if we started to make them out of rubber. This way, a customer could simply stretch the new rubber shock out and in to whatever length they want.

They could get the exact open length they would like, together with the ideal closed length they wish for also.

It would be good business sense for us too. We would only need to stock one part number on the shelf, rather than the hundreds of different part numbers we currently do.

I'd probably get a raise!!!

So, if you are interested in purchasing the new rubber shocks for your next suspension application, please click here.

Tips for beach and sand driving [A guide]

My favourite past-time is ‘beach driving’. Aussies have to be the luckiest people on the planet. You could spend a lifetime doing just a one-lap tour of our country’s coastline. And that wouldn’t include a peek at the more than 7,600,000 square kilometres in the middle!

Here are some things I have learnt along the way. If you think of more, please let me know.

Starting with your vehicle….

The make, model and age of your 4WD are not nearly as important as its reliability and safety.

Remember that soft sand usually places much greater loads on your vehicle’s engine transmission and driveline; due to the greater rolling resistance.

Minor cooling problems can become major issues when the engine is working hard.
If the engine overheats, the results can be serious and very expensive to repair.

Have your 4WD regularly serviced and inspected by a competent mechanic. Even though it will seem like a waste of money when everything is found to be okay, it is usually far cheaper than the experience of a major and unexpected breakdown.

Load your vehicle evenly. Distribution of the weight carried will assist traction and help the vehicle’s stability.

Before hitting the sand, become very familiar with your 4WDs steering, handling, power (or lack of it!), and the input required to change from 2WD to 4WD, and back again.

Many 4WD owners are not aware that, in some vehicles, drive-train stresses can make changing back to 2WD almost impossible: A situation that is rarely mentioned in the maker’s handbook.

Most 4WDs should not be driven in 4WD on a hard surface, so take to the time to learn about the procedure. An experienced owner, or a well-run 4WD club, would be good places to start.

Follow the rules….

These days, many beaches require the purchase of a permit before you can drive on the sand. If you are not sure if a permit is required, or who issues them, Google “beach permit” and include the name of the beach in the search box. If you forget to get a permit before setting out, there’s a good chance that the closest newsagent or service station will be able to issue one.

The permit will be will be issued subject to some rules and restrictions. Read these before you drive in the permit area. Driving over any sort of vegetation is always a No-Go, and there may be regulations regarding vehicle speed, sand dunes, and where you should travel on the beach.

Remember, doing the wrong thing can result in a hefty fine, tarnish the image of the 4WD community, and result in further restrictions regarding access to remote beaches.

Tyres and pressures….

Beach sand is funny stuff. With sufficient knowledge, and proper preparation, you can have a great time and get far away from the madding crowd. Without the essentials, a fun day – or days – can turn into a nightmare.

Rule No.1: Let some air out of your tyres to increase the ‘footprint’ area. This reduces the weight per square cm and also increases the ‘length’ of the contact area. Contrary to what many people will try to tell you, it is the increase in length, rather than width, which improves a vehicle’s ability to cross soft surfaces.

Take a look at some photos of horse-drawn coaches, or cars sold in the early part of the 20th century. Notice that they are fitted with very tall and skinny wheels. Yet, they were capable of driving on very sandy or extremely muddy roads that (today) we would call ‘tracks’. And just as it does on a snow ski, it is the length of the contact area that makes the difference.

Rule No.2: What is the best pressure for sand? Like most things in life; it all depends. The correct pressure will be the one that allows the vehicle to travel across the surface with the least amount of effort. Generally, 15psi is considered to be the ‘safe’ minimum.

Pressures lower than this may allow the tyre to unseat itself from the rim. While a tyre with a ‘highway’ tread pattern is the favourite for beach work, and one with a ‘mud’ pattern can work like a grave digger, the correct pressures, and right driving technique, are the most important factors.

Rule No.3: Always carry a decent tyre pump. You will not hesitate to let some air out of the tyres, if you know you will be able to pump them up again. Driving on the road, with low tyre pressures, is not wise. You will need to travel slowly to ensure the extra flex in the sidewalls does not overheat the tyres.

If you plan to drive on sand regularly, buy the best-performing air pump your budget will allow.

Behind the wheel….

Plenty of momentum is essential for most sand driving situations. Choosing a gear that will provide enough power to drive the vehicle forward can be tricky. You will need one that isn’t tall enough to cause the engine to ‘labour’: And a gear that is too ‘low’ could provide so much power that it will cause some of the tyres will dig holes into the sand.

Try to avoid sudden acceleration, sharp turns and hard braking. ‘Smooth’ should be your motto. Where possible, follow existing wheel tracks, as the compacted sand will (generally) provide a firmer base, and put less stress on the vehicle.

Sand dunes can be dangerous. Always drive straight up, or straight down. Trying to negotiate them at an angle, can be a recipe for disaster. Many beach-driving injuries, and deaths, are the result of not knowing how to tackle sand dunes. If you can’t make it to the top, reverse down in your existing tracks.

Be sure you know what is on the other side of a sand dune. The few minutes it will take to get out and check will be well worth it if it turns out that there in someone on the other side, another 4WD is approaching in the opposite direction, or your intended route is impassable.

The general rules of the road apply when driving on sand. Keep to the left (where possible) and use your indicators to signal your intention. Even in daylight, it can pay to have your headlights on to increase ‘awareness’. At night, keep in mind that dips in the sand may not be lit up by your lights, and there could be someone in the area. Obviously, you should never drive between the waters’ edge and a person who is fishing.

Before you park on sand, give some thought to how you will leave. It’s usually best to park with the vehicle facing downhill. This should allow you to take off smoothly and get up to the speed you need. Know your tides. Getting stranded on dry sand, or sinking in salt water, is not fun.

Beach driving can be one of the most enjoyable things you can do in a 4WD. You just have to abide by some rules, be well prepared, learn a few techniques, and be considerate of the environment and other people.

Roadworks and Ripsaws

There are roadworks in our street this week. It's a night time affair. People in white suits and orange vests and red torch batons. Above them are the 'day-lighter' lamps - named appropriately.

During the day, the trucks and machinery rest. The one pictured above looks like Stegosaurus, only tail-bobbed. The kids picked it first. My imagination also.

The beast rolls along on caterpillar tracks. Each track or 'foot' is mounted to a hydraulic ram which can extend or contract (independently if required) so the machine can remain stable no matter what.

Caterpillar or 'tank tracks' are old technology, but remain one of the most effective ways of cutting through rough terrain.

Reminds me of a YouTube clip a customer sent me about the 'Ripsaw'. With a 650 HP super-charged 427 ci engine,14 inches of suspension travel with adjustable height-control, 350lb custom wheel tracks, and capable of 0-50 mph in 3.5 seconds, this extreme machine lives up to its name. Check the embed blow.

A great time of year.

I like this time of year.

The first half of a Sydney winter is mild. Warm in the sun, cool in the shade. Polarized skys and white clouds, bar a few wet days. The air feels cleaner.

On Saturday a sky-writer plane was in the air. Everyone in the street was drawn to their front yards and looked up. Just as the figure '1' had been completed, a Qantas jet flew low across the scene. I was too slow to capture it.

It's also a great time to be outdoors. A great time to be 4Wding.

Soon it will be cold and wet. You go to work in the dark. Come home in the dark. Lots of jobs to do on the weekends.

So get out there! It's a great time of year.

Tyre pumps and air compressors don't belong under your bonnet.

Space is at a premium when travelling. It's why so many ask if a particular tyre pump or air compressor can be under-bonnet mounted.

Whether you spend $200 or $2000, the answer in the case of an electric-powered pump is (should be) no.

The greatest inhibitor of a compressors performance is heat. An electric compressor (any brand) generates tremendous heat - even at mild ambient temperatures.

Few pumps will inflate a decent size 4WD tyre from 15 to 36psi twice without needing a rest, or the thermostatic overload protection switch kicking in.

So why start at engine room temperature?

A different blog?

I'm hoping this blog will be different.

It's too easy to make your blog a sausage-factory for recycled news and propaganda.

This is the plan. I'll be real... Real info and tips. No jargon or sales-spiel. You can ask questions in the comments. I'll say it how it is.

You can learn stuff. Stuff that's good to know, or just plain fun.

What about you? Don't be a lurker. That's a person who shuffles around cyberspace gleaning it for info and entertainment - but does not contribute.

Say g'day. Share some stuff with others, and post some feedback.

Come back to the blog. Bookmark it. Cheers, KB.